Article Cycling

Volcanic Biking in Garrotxa

The Greenways (Viás Verdes) is a network of hiking and cycling trails in Spain that run along long-abandoned railways. The ministry of transport is in charge of maintenance and upkeep of the Greenways, having been overseeing the network for the last 20 years, but the routes are open for anyone and everyone regardless of whether they pay taxes in Spain.

Cars and motorcycles are forbidden entry, which makes the mostly flat or gently sloped trails ideal for family outings and moderate, relaxed hiking and cycling. Children, seniors and people with disabilities are among the avid users of the Greenways.

Spain now counts over a hundred of Greenways. In Catalonia, four are of the most interest:

  • Ruta del Carrilet I (Girona): Olot - Girona (57 km)
  • Ruta del Carrilet II (Girona): Girona - Sant Feliu de Guíxols (40 km)
  • Terra Alta Greenway (Tarragona): Arens de Lledó - El Pinell de Brai (23 km)
  • Vía Verde del Baix Ebre (Tarragona): Tortosa - El Pinell de Brai (25 km)

Depending on the level of fitness and the amount of time on your hands, you can cycle one of the routes above or conquer them in pairs: Ruta del Carrilet I - Ruta del Carrilet II or Vía Verde del Baix Ebre - Terra Alta Greenway. Ruta del Carrilet I is particularly noteworthy since it runs through the natural park of the volcanic zone of Garrotxa. (Yes, Catalonia has volcanoes too!)

The first part of the puzzle you need to solve before fastening a cycling helmet to your head and putting on padded cycling shorts is getting to the starting point of the route. Here are a few things to consider:

  1. Renting a car will get you to point A but won't make it to point B by itself, so you either have to recruit a companion with a driver's license and no cycling ambitions or cycle the route both ways, which may get a bit boring.
  2. The most convenient mode of transportation in Spain is rail, and it would be ideal to take a train to the starting point and leave on a train after crossing the cycling finish line. It is ironic that it's not really an option as the Greenways took over precisely the decommissioned railways in their respective provinces.
  3. Getting around by bus with a bicycle is possible, but every bus company insists that bicycles have to travel as luggage, fully packed or wrapped, which renders them highly impractical as ways to get to the bus in question.

Here is a solution: taking a train to Ripoll (just over 100 km away from Barcelona) and from there, cycling along the highway N260a to Olot (31 km). The highway is only referred to as such: traffic on the N260a is light, cars are few and far in between. The first few kilometers run uphill at a fairly forgiving incline, and the rest of the way is almost all downhill.

For those who are planning to continue along the Greenway from Girona to Sant Feliu de Guíxols to celebrate the triumph with a swim in the Mediterranean, it is necessary to decide how you will get back to Barcelona from there. Hint: the nearest railway station is in Caldes de Malavella, 22 km away.

Olot is a fairly large town by Catalan standards; being the administrative centre of the Garrotxa district, it boasts many festivals and fairs that are well-known outside of Spain. If cycling 30 km doesn't kill your desire for sightseeing, Olot is happy to oblige with various museums, churches, a monastery and even a sleeping volcano right within the city lines.

It would be safe to say that our cycling brigade chose the best way to spend time in Olot: we walked around town, took photos of some breathtaking buildings and then went out for dinner to sample the "Volcanic cuisine" of the region. Cuina Volcanica turned out to be a twist on the traditional Catalan dishes where meat dominates fish and local, seasonal ingredients are given preferential treatment.

The starting point to the Greenway toward Girona is known to every Olot resident, as it is one of the places of interest in town. Where to pedal next will be obvious thanks to en-route signage and signposts at every turn — it is practically impossible to lose track and take a wrong turn, even if you aren't using a GPS navigator or a map.

The road climbs uphill for the first 12 km after Olot, but the total elevation gain is only 175 m. 18 km of downhill riding follow, during which you can forget about the pedals and enjoy the breathtaking scenery all around you. 10 more kilometers of a flat road and then another downhill stretch, this time all the way to Girona. If you are seeking a cycling challenge, you are better off cycling the route in reverse, from Girona to Olot!

Don't be too disappointed at not spotting picturesque volcano craters on the way — the Greenways used to be railways, and trains prefer flat surfaces without steep climbs and drops. Not to worry: there are still plenty of Kodac moments on the way.

After the first downhill stretch, you will have covered almost half of the route, just the right moment for lunch. Many restaurants in towns along the route appreciate the cyclists' business, offering a special prix fixe "Bici" lunch at an attractive price. Some of the former train stations are now occupied by bicycle rentals and repair shops, most also have cafés and public bathrooms.

The last few kilometers at the end of the route clearly signal the inevitability of entering into a big city. Once you make it onto a bridge crossing a speedy highway, Girona is in sight and the bicycle is no longer king. Sharing the road with vehicles becomes necessary.

As mentioned above, you may continue enjoying the Greenways by riding from Girona to the beach town of Sant Feliu de Guíxols along the other route. The distance is shorter — only around 40 km, so if you have an extra one or two days, continuing south to the sea is a fantastic idea. Spending a night in Girona would also allow you time to get to know this unforgettable city better, enjoy its sights, sounds and of course gastronomy. If, on the other hand, great things await you in Barcelona (for example, a shower), board the train with a clear consciousness — you have just pedaled 60 km after all!